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Welcome to my August 2005 travel journal.
Up fairly late, again !!! oh well. Headed out to the bus station at Almohado, and bought bus ticket to Mendoza, Argentina for tomorrow at 2pm, $8000. We then headed to Central Station to try and meet up with a friend of Blanca’s who is here. She didn’t show so we headed out to Esquela Militar station on the metro and caught a taxi to the Mall Sport. Really good shops for anything sport like, even guns !!! bough a new t-shirt and then caught the bus back to the metro system. Taxi out $5000, bus back $700... Bussing back into town is much easier though !!! Then back into the centre to pick up another film and upload to the internet. Heading to the Irish bar tonight Flannerys Started getting a real fever so just crashed out in the end...
Up packed and out to collect the last of the photos from town. Then catch taxi to the bus station, but find out that the bus is suspended, since the road to Mendoza is, closed. It was closed yesterday and will be probably for a few days. A little annoying they didn’t say anything yesterday when we bought the tickets !!! Oh well, get a full refund and head back to happy house hostel. I am feeling a little worse with my cold so pretty much crash. But we do buy flights to Mendoza for tomorrow from LAN Chile (advert for $79 us + taxes) ended up being closer to $115 us. But I haven’t really got time to wait for the road to open, only 2 weeks left and need to get to Brazil by then !!!
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Up fairly late, Up and packed again, update the internet and just chilling waiting for the flight around 5pm, get into Mendoza around 7pm. LA932 with LAN Chile, average flight, but very bumpy going over the Andes. With the road closed this is the only option for us with little time left. Arrive in Mendoza and search for a hostel. Eventually end up at the Xumec Apartment hotel (Las Heras and Mitre), very friendly and excellent room, kitchenette style $99 (Argentinean pesos) per night, about $30 us a bit pricy, but worth it. Quick walk around the very nice town of Mendoza, few beers bed....
More walking around Mendoza, really pretty town. Bought some Mates cups and Yelpu Mate !! The Argentinean past time, brewing a tea like drink with hot water and herbs, in a wooden cup and drinking through a metal straw with a filter to remove the herbs as you drink it. Also found the very helpful Mancagua Viajeo travel agency on España 967. We were going to head down to the bus station later to see about buses to Buenos Aires, but they did it all for us there and then. We booked our seats on the bus for tomorrow night, following a wine tour to 2 Bodegas in the famous Mendosa wine region of Argentina. Hit a couple more bars again.....
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Up late and after another explore of town were picked up by the tour agency, and with all our luggage headed off. There were about 8 in our bus (two other buses were also being run by the agency) Pepo, our guide was excellent. We first drove about 30 minutes to the first large Bodega of La Rural (which is recommended in the Footprint guide as a must see) We waited for our tour to start and at 3pm set of in a very large group (about 40 people) viewing the fields, large collection vessels, and the whole wine making process. Pretty interesting, cant say I was too impressed with the guide from the Bodega though. After a quick tasting session we headed back to the van, where Pepo was playing for the other guys from tour company. I joined in a little too, wow on only two glasses of wine tooo..... We were soon off again and to a much smaller Bodega of CarineE.
This was much more like a little cottage farm, another better tour here, around the much smaller facilities, and again back to the tasting.
Malbec, is very good and the most famous wine of the region, although the French name of the grape, and hence of the wine, means bad taste, only because it doesn’t grow well in France. It was very good here... Our last stop on the tour was to an olive oil farm. Here were learned how Extra Virgin Oil is made from the olives. It is the process of oil extraction, which makes it extra virgin.... Really very interesting and a fine finish to the tour. The tour then dropped us off at the bus station ready for our 20:15 bus to Buenos Aires (15 hours). Recommend the tour, although a little quick at each place, is an excellent insight to the main industries, both the big and small versions, in the area, and for $50 pesos, very reasonable. We were soon on the very nice Andesmar bus and this time Camas seats meant riding down below. Very good, although still don’t get much sleep on buses.
Arrived in BA around 11 am, although can’t really remember it. Head straight to the Tandil Hotel which is in the centre of town. A bit run down and dirty, but ok for $50 per night. Head straight out and explore the main shopping area in the centre of town, Calle Florida. Usual stuff, but pretty quite for a Saturday Morning. Quick walk around Plaza San Martin, and return back to the hotel, this time the many more people up and about. Both pretty shattered, so order in some food and crash in front of the telly.
Up and out to explore the town, and book by phone a city tour with Buenos Aires Vision $25Pesos pp (2pm till 6pm), get picked up around 2pm from the hotel, and after picking up the others in the group of 17, our guide Sergio, which was also the name of the driver, interesting stuff that thanks Blanca !!!!
We then drove around the city getting a quick overview of where things where, and finding interesting things to do. Didn’t think too much of the tour itself, but it was excellent to visit the Boca stadium, the local football team, and La Boca, an excellent Parisian, colourful quarter to the city.
We then decided to quit the tour at the Plaza Derrego, where they have an excellent Sunday Antiques market. we then enjoyed a pleasant time walking back through the maze of streets back to the hotel. Headed out to the Siga de Vacas, on Puerto Madero, pretty good buffet style Parailla (BBQ) excellent meat, and really good value.
Headed out to the famous La Recoleta area of town, which we had seen on the tour yesterday. Here the most famous attraction is the fabulous Cemetery, where among other famous Argentineans, Evita is buried. It really is peaceful and quite like a little citadel, a must for anyone visiting the city. We then seemed to walk for miles, but eventually found our way back to the Obolisk, on Av 9 de Julio. Also bought a new jacket and new shoes, my Salomon, walking boots, after 7 years hard use and despite the repairs in Ecuador, are in need of updating.... Oh well, got a nice ski jacket, boots and rucksack all for under 100 pounds... and tax free, well get a rebate when I leave Argentina... Excellent. Hit a few bars including the local Irish Bar, the Clover.
Head out to try and visit some of the sights of BA today, but the Teatro Colón is not doing tours for 2 days !! well worth phoning in advanced !!! Oh well, we did get to see the Casa Rosada (Presidente´s offices) Museo, you need to make a reservation if you want a tour of the house itself. And get an excellent tour of the Senate house (the other end of the Ave de Mayo.) Really excellent tour and worth waiting till 5pm for... Also headed up to the bus station and booked ticket with Express Tigre Iguazu for another 17 hours in a bus to Iguazu, for tomorrow night, leaving 18:30 ($105 Pesos pp) send out an email to Viviana, a friend Jon and I met in Peru, back in January, to hopefully meet her tonight at Killkenny Irish bar. Hear that is the hit place to head for. It is pretty packed and obviously a favourite hangout. We don’t see Viviana, and can’t be sure what time we left.... many new friends though....
Spend most of the morning trying to get my last parcel sent off to home. First get my packing redone, as the local post office, Correo Argentina, two doors from the hotel says parcels cannot be wrapped with Sellotape, oh well, find an excellent friendly shop nearby that helps us re-wrap the whole lot, back again, and after waiting, with number, for 20 minutes, find the parcel, now boxed and papered (only with glue) is too heavy, so we duly head to the Main International post office near the Bus terminal at Retiro, here the most unfriendly woman of my entire time in South America, makes us rip open the parcel for customs, and after a cursory look walks off !!!, after another 30mins, scrounging materials to re-seal my parcel eventually get it set off...... We then head back near the centre and after a bit to eat, end up seeing the latest Bruce Willis flick, Bajo Amanasa, really excellent flick, well worth it !!! just 25p (UK Pounds) each !!! Back to hotel, and quick taxi ride later we are again waiting for another bus. This eventually arrives at 6.50pm, usually this late, we find out, and off we are again, in another very clean, friendly, bus this time heading north, and hopefully a little warmer.
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We eventually arrive in Pureto Iguazú around 11.50am, head to the Hostel International hostel, Iguazu Falls, nearby the terminal, only $40 pesos per night. We then head off to explore this excellent town. It is a welcome change to be away from a large city again, and it is refreshing to see the green of the selva all around us. we venture to the end of town to see the Tres Frontieras. Here, Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay all come together, it is a wonderful view and for about an hour, Blanca and I just sit and enjoy it after the hot walk down here. Going to join in with the BBQ at the hostel tonight, and then head out to the Iguazú falls tomorrow early... well will see what happens.... Really good BBQ, excellent meat and really good salads, well worth the $15pesos. Met Lucia (Buenos Aires) and Nicholas (Santiago), who are both heading to the Cataratas tomorrow too. A few beers, games of cards with Elsa (London) and crash.
Up and meet Lucia at 7.30 down to the bus station and in time to catch the packed 8.10 bus to the Waterfalls (Cataratas, or Cascadas), the national park is very well set up on the Argentinean side, with gas powered train, numerous walks and view points of all of the cascades, the scale of the falls is truly amazing, and it is no wonder that it is the biggest attraction in Argentina. Arriving early we decide to join Lucia, on the Grand Adventure, set up by (complete later) for $80pesos pp includes 4x4 explore of the jungle, rapids, and under the mist of the waterfalls in a speed boat. Really excellent, especially the drenching under the falls, all videoed too !!! we then dry off with some new Italian friends, before
exploring the San Martin Island, with excellent views of the San Martin Falls (the second most important ones) the ones we were just drenched by. Then completing the Inferior, lower walking loop. Then on the train see the Garganta de Diablo, which is just absolutely awesome !!! The amount of water pouring over the edge is spectacular. After a few beers and some souvenirs we catch the bus back to Town. After a shower, we decide to head out to the local Club / Bar Cubra Libra, and to cut a long story short, much dancing, much whisky, and Blanca and Nicholas carried my home !!!!
Day just crashing and relaxing, oh, and getting over a stinking hangover !!! joined in the BBQ again tonight in the hostel, not so good tonight... Meat pretty lame !!!!
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Up for the 10am check out and down to the bus station, only 1 block from the hostel. Eventually find a bus for Sao Paulo direct, but seat 10 and 38, but Blanca needs a certificate of Injection for Yellow Fever to enter Brazil. That’s a new problem. Blanca is sure she had the injection, so after dumping the bags in the bus station hold, walk to the local hospital and for $30pesos persuade the Nurse to give us a hand written note with official hospital stamp, confirming an injection on the 4th August. As it turns out we need it at the border, so the guy selling us the tickets was doing the write thing, so for $30 extra pesos on the $145 pesos pp, we are now winging out way to Sao Paulo. leaving at 12.30, we get into Sao Paulo around 5am. No food in the bus on the Brazilian side, so we stop at cafes.
Eventually arrive in Sao Paulo, easily find the Radio taxi and for $30 reais (about $10US) find the Hotel Itamarati, not where it is shown on the Footprint guide, but the taxi knows it. Quick relatively easy check in, and crash for a few hours. Up for breakfast just before 10am, have to pay extra, since we are not paying for this night. ($85 Reais pn) Really friendly at breakfast too, eggs, chorizo, bread, cornflakes, cafe the works. then off to explore town, get Blanca a flight and confirm my flight details. 3 more days and my South American adventure goes on Pause, not for long though !!!! Spent most of the afternoon searching for a flight for Blanca, and having been told by the guy in the LAB office there were no available flights on 18th, found one on the internet and returned. Then had problems with my cards, they were using the chip and pin system, which I know will not work with one of my cards, since this has to be activated on the card in an English ATM machine. But the company for the other card said it should work no problems. Oh well just another hiccup, they with hold the flight reservation till tomorrow. Had an excellent meal 2 doors down from the hotel at Galetos Grill and Pasta, excellent food, excellent service. One of the best steaks I have had all trip. Blanca had the past which was also freshly made and excellent.
Up again to excellent breakfast in the hotel, off into town to continue chasing the problems with using my cards. Eventually after trying again in the LAB shop, we find that they are accepted in CityBank ATM, so get cash out and pay for the flights for Blanca. leaving 5.30pm on the 18th, so just before me. Spend the rest of the day exploring Sao Paulo, on internet and phoning home.
Up to the usual excellent breakfast and head out to the Cathedral and Praca de Se, another central park. We pass the Edificio Itailia on the way which is the tallest building in the city. Not very impressed with Sao Paulo, although it is not a real tourist destination, there is no real thought to tourists, and not much to see. Just a city full of 37 million people. Praca de Se is a little nicer that the Praca de Republica, but only just. The Catederal Meropolitana is massive and really peaceful. We end up again at the Galetos Grill and Pasta, again excellent food.
Breakfast for the last time today, then after a quick last walk around the centre we catch a cab for around $40 reais to the airport. Blanca and I then walk around the 4 wings on the airport playing in shops and bars before it is all too soon time for her to leave. It is very hard to say goodbye, having spent the last 5 months travelling around together and enjoying each others company, I will really miss her. I hope soon though that she can come out and visit me back in the UK. That is before I make my way back out to South America...
I while away the 3-4 hours before my flight in the bar, before paying my $100US change fee, check in and passing through to the departure lounge. I again set off the metal detectors but am quickly though and the flight leaves on time at 9.30pm. Again fairly standard service. I am at once stuck by how little space you have in cattle class. I think back to the hundreds of Bus journeys that have more space than the first class cabin !!! Oh well. The movies I have all seen before, and I begin to think 'why am I coming back ??'
Eventually arrive in Newark around 6am. Didn't really sleep much, but looking forward to shopping in NY. The very helpful counter on the ground floor sells me a ticket for the Newark Express Bus service for $22 US return and I am soon on the next bus for the 30 min ride to the Port Authority Bus Station on 42nd Street, only 5 or so blocks from the hotel. The hotel, I find, is ideally located only 1 block from Times Square. Portland Square Hotel, 132 West 47th Street. (Phone 212-382-0600) for $70 per night, is ok. The rooms are tiny but all is clean. After a quick shower I crash for a couple of hours, and then head out to Soho. I end up walking most of the way down Manhattan, which is ok, but New York is very hot a sticky at this time of year. I eventually find Soho get the bits I want and spend a very pleasant afternoon, hitting the bars of Soho and Little Italy before grabbing an excellent pizza and heading back to the hotel to crash.
Up for a bit more shopping and enjoying, well tying too, the hot sticky weather. Visit all the usual touristy places near the centre, before finding an Irish bar near to the hotel and enjoying a short evening with new friends.
A quick walk up to Central Park and then I am back walking to the Port Authority Bus Terminal and the bus back to Newark. The service runs very frequently so within no time I am leaving the Air Conditioned Bus Terminal and winging my way back to Newark Airport. Quickly through customs check, removing my shoes, and then into the Departure lounge, which with the way all the shops are spread out, keeps me entertained for the next 3 hours before my flight, which leave about an hour late at 7.50pm. Again I cannot believe how little room the planes give you... Seen all the movies again so try and sleep, without much luck.
Arrive back at Gatwick just about on time at 6.50am. Fairly jet lagged, and missing South America already. Pick up my bags when they eventually appear and walk out to Mum and Dad who have come down to Gatwick to greet me and give me a lift home. It is really strange to be back and the slight drizzle as we drive back does nothing for my attitude. We chat about all my adventures and photos, and Blanca and all. It is good in some ways to be back and see my family again. Will be good next weekend to catch up with all my friends, most of whom will be at the wedding, well that is the main reason I have come back at all... First thing I do, after a shower, it go for a quick blat on the bike. Hmmm, yep missed that as well. Oh well better start thinking about getting a job, but not just yet ....
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